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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.